What are the essential items for towing an Avalon boat trailer safely?

The lake is calling, your Avalon is loaded with gear, and you’re ready for an unforgettable weekend—but getting there safely starts long before you hit the water, with a trailer that’s properly matched, maintained, and loaded.

TL;DR
Your boat trailer is just as important as the boat itself. This guide covers everything you need to know about choosing the right trailer for your Avalon pontoon, pre-trip inspections, safe towing practices, launching and loading techniques, and essential maintenance that keeps your trailer reliable for years. Whether you’re a first-time tower or looking to polish your skills, these tips will help you transport your boat with confidence.

Key Takeaways

Choose the right trailer type: Bunk-style trailers offer stability for highway towing; scissor-style trailers work better for shallow launches and storage.
Match capacity to your boat: A trailer with insufficient capacity is unsafe; one that’s too heavy-duty can damage lightweight aluminum pontoons.
Secure everything before driving: Loose cushions, tables, and covers can blow out and cause damage or accidents.
Flush after saltwater use: Salt trapped between bunks and pontoons causes corrosion—rinse thoroughly after every saltwater trip.
Inspect tires, lights, and bearings regularly: These are the most common failure points on any trailer.

Table of Contents

Why Your Trailer Matters as Much as Your Boat

You spent time choosing the perfect Avalon pontoon boat. You researched models, compared features, and invested in quality. But here’s something many new owners overlook: your trailer is part of that investment.

A poorly matched or poorly maintained trailer can damage your boat before it ever touches the water. The wrong trailer can cause:

Structural damage: A trailer with stiff suspension designed for heavy loads can actually crack or stress lightweight aluminum pontoons .
Corrosion: Saltwater trapped between trailer bunks and pontoons eats away at aluminum .
Safety hazards: Blowouts, bearing failures, and sway on the highway put everyone at risk.

Have you ever thought about what happens to your boat when you hit a pothole at 65 mph? Your trailer is the only thing between your Avalon and the pavement.

Here’s what Avalon emphasizes about trailering: “The trailer should be a proper ‘match’ for your boat’s weight and hull design. Too little trailer capacity will be unsafe on the highway and could cause abnormal tire wear. Too high a capacity trailer sprung for high loads can damage light, particularly aluminum, boats” .

Choosing the Right Trailer: Bunk vs. Scissor

Not all pontoon trailers are created equal. Avalon identifies two main types, each with distinct advantages .

Bunk-Type Trailers (Drive-On)

These are the trailers you probably picture when you think of boat towing. They feature a wide base with two raised, carpeted bunks that support the pontoons along their length.

Best for:

Long-distance highway towing
Boaters who launch at ramps with adequate depth
Triple-pontoon models (scissor trailers can’t accommodate them)

Pros:

More stable at highway speeds—less prone to tipping during turns
Spreads the boat’s weight evenly along the pontoons
Easier to load and unload with a drive-on design
Less likely to exaggerate bumps in the road

Cons:

Requires deeper water for launching—trailer must be submerged enough to float the boat on and off
Sets the boat higher off the ground, creating more wind resistance while towing
Harder to use at shallow ramps or in low water conditions

Scissor-Type Trailers (Fold-Down)

These trailers have a narrow frame that fits between the pontoons and lifts the boat by the deck from underneath. They’re sometimes called “fold-down” because they can collapse for storage.

Best for:

Shallow water launches where bunk trailers can’t reach deep enough
Storage in garages or sheds where height clearance is an issue
Short-distance transport

Pros:

Can launch in very shallow water—lower the boat directly onto the ground and push it in
Fold down for compact storage
Top of the boat sits much lower during transport

Cons:

Narrow wheel base makes them more prone to tipping during tight turns
Exaggerates bumps in the road—rougher ride for your boat
Cannot be used for triple-pontoon models
Less stable at highway speeds

When making your decision, Avalon advises considering your launch site first: “If the water is too shallow, you won’t be able to launch your boat with a bunk-type trailer, making a scissor-type necessary” .

The Tip Test

If you’re shopping for a scissor-style trailer, Avalon recommends a simple test: give the trailer a “tip test” to see how much you can move it with your bare hands. If you can lift it or tip it yourself, it’s probably not stable enough. A single-axle scissor trailer is asking for trouble—two wheels are the bare minimum, and a tandem axle model with four wheels or more offers the best balance .

The Evolution of Pontoon Trailering

Pontoon trailers have evolved alongside the boats themselves. Here’s how we got to today’s options:

1970s-1980s
Homemade and basic scissor trailers dominated. Owners often welded their own frames. Highway towing was an adventure.

1990s
Commercial bunk trailers became widely available. Disc brakes and better lighting improved safety.

2000s
Galvanized and aluminum trailers reduced rust issues. Tandem axles became standard on larger pontoons.

2010s
LED trailer lights replaced bulbs. Surge brakes improved. Manufacturers began offering trailers specifically matched to boat models.

Today
Custom-matched trailers with torsion axles, sealed LED lighting, and corrosion-resistant finishes are the standard for serious boat owners.

Pre-Trip Trailer Inspection

Before you hook up and head out, run through this checklist. It takes ten minutes and could save you from a roadside disaster.

Tires

Check pressure: Inflate to the rating on the sidewall (usually 50-65 PSI for trailer tires)
Inspect tread: Look for uneven wear, cracks, or bald spots
Check sidewalls: Dry rot and cracking mean it’s time to replace
Spare tire: Make sure it’s inflated and you have a jack and lug wrench that fit

Wheels and Bearings

Grease bearings: If you have bearing buddies, pump fresh grease until you see old grease push out
Check for heat: After a short drive, feel the hubs—excessive heat means bearing trouble
Listen: Grinding or squeaking sounds while towing indicate bearing failure

Lights and Wiring

Test all lights: Running lights, brake lights, turn signals
Check connections: Look for corrosion on the plug and wiring harness
Carry spares: A spare bulb kit can save your trip if a light fails

Frame and Bunks

Inspect frame: Look for rust, cracks, or bent sections
Check bunk carpet: Worn carpet can scratch your pontoons
Test bunk boards: Rotting wood needs replacement before it fails

Coupler and Safety Chains

Latch operation: Should lock securely onto the hitch ball
Safety chains: Cross them under the coupler (creates a cradle if the hitch fails)
Breakaway cable: If equipped, ensure it’s connected and functional

Here’s something many boat owners learn the hard way: trailer tires aren’t the same as car tires. They have different load ratings and sidewall construction. Using car tires on a trailer is dangerous.

Prepping Your Boat for Transport

Before you even think about backing down the ramp, secure your boat.

What to Remove or Secure

Avalon’s technical information is clear on this: “During road transportation you must secure all items that might dislodge and fly out of your boat. This includes tables, unhinged seat cushions, tops, sundeck lids and any other item that can be affected by wind” .

Tables: Remove or stow securely
Seat cushions: Store under seats or tie down—they’re surprisingly aerodynamic at highway speeds
Bimini top: Lower and secure, or remove entirely for long trips
Sundeck lids: Ensure they’re latched or secured
Loose gear: Coolers, fishing rods, and water toys should be stowed or tied down

Cover Warning

“Mooring or seat covers are intended to decrease your boat’s exposure to rain, dirt and sun. They are not intended to be a transport cover. Transporting your boat with the mooring or seat covers on will damage the covers!” .

If you want protection during transport, you need a trailer cover designed for highway speeds. Your mooring cover will flap, tear, and damage your boat’s finish.

Transom and Drive

Tilt the outboard: Raise the lower unit to provide clearance—especially important on steep ramps
Secure with transom saver: This supports the outboard and reduces stress on the transom

Loading Your Boat onto the Trailer

Loading is the reverse of launching, but it requires just as much care.

Pre-Loading Prep

Clean the bunks: Sand or dirt on bunks can abrade the boat’s bottom
Check the drain plug: Make sure it’s installed (ask anyone who’s forgotten—it’s a memorable mistake)
Prepare lines: Have your bow line ready to secure the boat

The Loading Process

Back the trailer into the water until the bunks are submerged enough to float the boat on
Power the boat onto the trailer slowly—no faster than idle speed
Align the boat with the trailer using short throttle bumps
Winch the final few feet to seat the bow against the roller
Attach safety chains and secure transom straps

“To avoid injury if the winch line or hook gives way, stand to one side when winching the boat onto your trailer.”

Here’s a pro tip: after your first pull up the ramp, stop and check that the boat is seated properly on the bunks. Pulling forward a few feet and checking alignment is much easier than discovering a shifted boat halfway home.

Launching Your Avalon Pontoon

Avalon’s President and CEO Jim Wolf walks owners through launching in their video series . Here’s the step-by-step process.

Step 1: Pre-Launch Prep (Away from the Ramp)

Remove all tie-down straps
Install the drain plug
Attach a bow line (long enough to control the boat from the dock)
Tilt the outboard up for clearance
Load all gear that will go in the boat
Disconnect trailer lights if you’ll be submerging them

Step 2: Back Down the Ramp

Use a spotter if visibility is limited
Back straight and slow
Stop with the trailer wheels at the water’s edge before submerging them if possible

Step 3: Launch

Unhook the winch strap
Push the boat off the trailer (or have someone back it in while you hold the bow line)
Using the bow line, walk the boat to the dock—away from the ramp area
Park the tow vehicle where it won’t block ramp access

Step 4: Final Checks

Start the engine before leaving the dock
Let it warm up and check for water flow from the telltale
Verify steering and throttle operation before heading out

“The lower ends of ramps are often wet and slippery” . Take your time, use your parking brake, and chock your wheels. A vehicle sliding down the ramp is nobody’s idea of a good start to the day.

Towing Safety and Techniques

Weight Distribution

A properly loaded trailer should have about 10-15% of the total weight on the tongue. Too little tongue weight causes sway; too much overloads your tow vehicle’s rear axle.

Sway Control

If your trailer starts swaying:

Don’t slam the brakes—this makes sway worse
Ease off the accelerator
Use a sway control device if towing with a smaller vehicle

Following Distance

Double your normal following distance. Stopping a loaded boat trailer takes significantly longer than stopping your vehicle alone.

Backing a Trailer

The golden rule: place your hand at the bottom of the steering wheel. To make the trailer go left, move your hand left. To go right, move your hand right .

Here’s the thing about backing a trailer—everyone struggles at first. Find an empty parking lot and practice before you attempt a crowded boat ramp on a Saturday morning.

Maintenance: Keeping Your Trailer Road-Ready

After Every Use

Rinse with fresh water: Especially important after saltwater use. Flush between the bunks and pontoons to remove trapped salt
Check for damage: Look for loose bolts, bent components, or signs of wear

After Saltwater Use (Critical!)

Saltwater is the enemy of trailers. If you launch in salt or brackish water:

Rinse everything: Frame, axles, bunks, lights, and wiring
Flush between bunks: “If you trailer your boat you MUST flush the saltwater from in between the bunks and the pontoons”
Consider anti-fouling paint: “If anti-fouling paint is not used corrosion can occur at the point the trailer bunk meets the pontoon”

Monthly Maintenance

Grease bearings: Use a grease gun on bearing buddies
Inspect tires: Check pressure and look for cracks
Test all lights: Replace any burned-out bulbs
Check brake fluid: If your trailer has surge brakes

Annual Maintenance

Repack wheel bearings: Even with bearing buddies, a full repack annually prevents failure
Inspect bunk carpet: Replace if worn or torn
Check frame for rust: Sand and repaint any areas showing corrosion
Inspect springs and hardware: Look for broken leaves or loose bolts

Trailer Accessories Worth Considering

Accessory	Purpose	Why It Matters
Transom Saver	Supports outboard during transport	Prevents stress cracks and hydraulic cylinder damage
Bearing Buddies	Maintains grease pressure in hubs	Extends bearing life significantly
LED Light Kit	Brighter, longer-lasting trailer lights	More visible to other drivers, less frequent replacement
Spare Tire Kit	Complete spare with mounting hardware	Getting a flat without a spare ruins your day
Trailer Jack	Heavy-duty wheel for maneuvering	Makes positioning the trailer effortless
Winch with Strap	Pulls boat onto trailer	Replace worn straps before they fail

Frequently Asked Questions About Avalon Boat Trailers

What type of trailer is best for my Avalon pontoon?
It depends on your needs. Bunk-style trailers are more stable for highway towing. Scissor-style trailers work better for shallow launches and garage storage. Bunk trailers cannot be used for triple-pontoon models .

How do I choose the right trailer capacity?
The trailer should match your boat’s weight. Too little capacity is unsafe; too much capacity with stiff suspension can damage lightweight aluminum pontoons .

Can I use my mooring cover for transport?
No. Mooring and seat covers are not designed for highway speeds. Transporting with them on will damage the covers .

How do I prevent corrosion on my trailer in saltwater?
Rinse thoroughly with fresh water after each use. Flush between the bunks and pontoons. Consider having anti-fouling paint applied to the pontoons where they contact the bunks .

What should I check before a long towing trip?
Tire pressure and condition, wheel bearings, lights and wiring, coupler operation, safety chains, and that all loose items in the boat are secured .

How often should I repack trailer wheel bearings?
At least annually, or more frequently if you launch in saltwater. Bearing buddies help but don’t eliminate the need for periodic repacking .

What’s the safest way to back a trailer down the ramp?
Use a spotter if possible. Place your hand at the bottom of the steering wheel—the trailer goes in the direction you move your hand. Go slow and use your mirrors .

What’s your best trailering tip or most memorable launch ramp experience? Share your story in the comments below—we all learn from each other’s adventures.

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